##############################################################################
#                                                                            #
#                       Dial 'I' for Information                             #
#                              Issue #1                                      #
#                              07/31/93                                      #
#                  Edited by the Phone Phantom [*][0][#]                     #
#                                                                            #
##############################################################################

        Welcome!  First of all, I would like to thank you for downloading this
magazine.  This magazine's purpose is to educate you, the public, about stuff  
people would rather you not know.  I would like to focus on anti telephone
company activities, but I am a little short on fresh valid info right now.  One 
thing that this magazine will NOT have is a bunch of recipes for explosives
and such; I find that kind of stuff EXTREMELY boring, as most of us don't have
a place to go blowing off pipe bombs.  If you would like to submit something
to the next issue of Dial 'I' for Information, leave a message for me, the
Phone Phantom, on Electric Dreams.  Subscription info in next issue...

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
------------------
1.  How to make a potato cannon
2.  List of * codes for the Des Moines tel. system
3.  Let's hack "In Touch"
4.  How to hack answering machines
5.  "Imponderables" by David Feldman
6.  Weekly top 10 things to do to confuse people
7.  Misconceptions
8.  How to brew your own beer!


************************************
File #1: How to make a potato cannon
************************************

[------------------------------------------------------------]                   
[                                                            ]
[             The Phone Phantom presents....                 ]
[                                                            ]
[                   How to Make a Potato Cannon              ]
[                                                            ]
[   The first of many informative text philes to come...     ]
[                                                            ]
[   Be watching for my new beer-making phile, PPBEER.ZIP!    ]
[   It's written for beginner's like myself, people who are  ]
[   "mature" enough to buy cigarettes but not alcohol...     ]
[                                                            ]
[                                                            ]
[------------------------------------------------------------]
        
DISCLAIMER: This phile is NOT for informational purposes only! I take no
  responsibility for some loser who builds this and doesn't use it for
  illegal and/or anarchial (a word? 'Tis now!) purposes.


        Okay, first I'll tell you what this little thing does -- if you haven't 
guessed it already, it shoots potatoes (actually pieces of them). Using it is 
very simple; you load the potato into the barrell, push it down like you would 
a musket, spray some hair spray into the back of the cannon, screw on the cap, 
and fire away. I can't tell you exactly how far this thing will shoot, but I 
know it would hurt very badly if you were to hit somebody (accidentally, of 
course!). Many of you may have heard of something like this before which looks 
more like a gun and has a button trigger. My experience with this type of gun 
was not exactly fun; the handle takes a lot of work to make and gas grill 
starters simply do not generate a big enough spark to ignite the hair spray 
mixture every time. My model can be built in about 2 hours and for about $25.

        The basic idea is this: you want to have a large explosion chamber for 
the hair spray, but a small-diameter barrell so the air velocity is greater. 
The entire gun should be made of PVC; go to your local hardware store and find 
the PVC aisle. I went to Sutherlands; they had everything that I needed and a 
special rack of scrap PVC sections which are a lot cheaper than buying a 10 
foot pipe. Your explosion chamber should be made of a 1-foot section of 4" PVC. 
You'll need a female adapter for this pipe which accepts a 4" PVC plug. You'll 
also need a reducing coupler; I couldn't find one that reduced the 4" down to 
1 1/2" (barrell), so I had to buy one that reduced the 4" down to 2", then put 
a very small section of 2" PVC into the small end, and then get another 
reducing coupler that reduced 2" down to 1 1/2". You'll need to cement all 
parts together (except the plug; you'll need to open that for every reload), 
so pick up some PVC cement also. The barrell should be about 2 feet of 1 1/2" 
PVC. Sharpen the end of the barrell with a file so it cuts the potatoes easier. 
Oh, I almost forgot: you'll need something to keep the potato piece from 
slipping out of the barrell and into the hair spray chamber. I've found that 
a little piece of axle wire from Hobby Haven works perfectly. Just heat it up 
and then stick it through the 1 1/2" PVC pipe about 1cm up from the bottom 
before you cement it into the reducing coupler. This will keep it in there for 
good. Don't worry, all of this will be easier to understand when you have the 
pieces in front of you, for those of us who don't know what a reducing coupler 
looks like. For the ignitor, go to a camping store like Frontier Outfitting and 
pick up a lantern starter. It's a little contraption that uses a flint to 
generate a big spark; the only drawback is that you have to twist the knob to 
fire the cannon. I know, it's not as fun as pressing a trigger, but it works 
almost every time. Just glue all the PVC together as in the diagram below (or 
use common sense), and then drill a hole in the 4" PVC to accomodate the little 
ignitor. Take off the aluminum piece that doesn't appear to do anything, and 
then mount the rest on the cannon. It's hard to explain how to do this; just 
make sure that the flint part is inside the chamber, the knob is in a 
convenient place, and the chamber is basically airtight. When I mounted my 
ignitor the 4" PVC was too thick for the little threaded bolt on the ignitor, 
so I had to use a 3/4" drill bit and drill PART of the way through the PVC to 
make it thinner right where the nuts were going to screw together. If this 
ignitor thing sounds complicated, don't worry; you'll understand when you see 
it. If you have any questions or improvements, leave me a message on Electric
Dreams (please??)  --Phone Phantom [*][0][#]
      
Note: I have found that Rave hair spray works well, the least hold the better.

Diagram (sort of): (parts shown detached for easier understanding)
                   (cement EVERYTHING but screw-on cap)
                   (not drawn to scale, is anything anymore?)


                                 |+++|
                    =########4" Screw-on Cap########= 

                   |=                               =|
                   |=          (threaded)           =|
                   |        4" Female Adapter        |
                   |                                 |
                   \                                 /
                    \                               /
                   
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |     (hair spray goes here)      |
                   |       (about 2-3 seconds,       |
                   |        depends on chamber,      |
                   |        then replace threaded    |
                   |        cap. DO THIS AFTER       |
                   |        LOADING POTATO!!)        |
                   |                                 |
                   |     About 1 foot of 4" PVC      |
                   |                                 |
                   |     ignitor         *-----------|--+
                   |     assembly  ->    !/          |
                   | (flick knob         !           |
                   |   QUICKLY!)         !           |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |
                   |                                 |

                 [                                     ]
                 [     4" to 2" Reducing Coupler       ]
                 [                                     ]
                   \                                 /
                     \                             /
                       \                         /
                         \                     /
                           \                 /
                            [               ]
                            [               ]
                            [               ]

                             | very short  |
                             | sec. of 2"  |
                             | PVC to join |
                             |  couplers   |
                             |             |

                            [ 2" to 1 1/2"  ]
                            [   reducing    ]
                            [   coupler     ]
                             \             /
                              [           ]
                              [           ]
                              [           ]

                               |         |
                    axle wire->|---------|
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |  2 feet |
                               |of 1 1/2"|
                               | PVC for |
                               | barrell |
                               |  with   |
                               |axle wire|
                               | (above) |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |         |
                               |    ^    |
                               |    |    |
                               |   ram   |
                               | potato  |
                               | down    |
                               | barrell |
                               | to axle |
                               |  wire   |
          taper barrell with   |         |
          file or grinding  -> \         /
          wheel to cut potatoes             [*][0][#]


*******************************************************
File #2: List of * codes for the Des Moines tel. system
*******************************************************

        I have included this list because it's about the only bit of quasi
phreaking info that I have.  I compiled this list one night when I had nothing
better to do, and ended up adding $1 to my parents' phone bill accidentally.

Code    Result
----    ------------------------------
*57     Trace last incoming call.  After dialing this you will get a recording
          that gives you an 800 number where you can call to deal with the
          harrassing phone call.  They will NOT release the phone number to
          you, they'll turn it over to the police if the call was bad enough.
          Just get Caller ID, people.  Oh, I almost forgot.  This is the thing
          that automatically adds $1 to your phone bill.

*67     Block your number from being sent to Caller ID receivers.  Dial this
          before you make your call.  Phreakers, use this every time you make
          a phone call, everyone's getting Caller ID now, and you're very safe
          as long as the victim doesn't trace the call.

*69     Last Call Return.  Dials the last person that called you.  You must
          order this feature, but I recently heard a commercial on the radio
          saying that you can try this out for free for a while.

*70     Disable call waiting.  I'm sure most of you know about this already.
          Dial it before making your call.

*72     I don't know, but it's something in use right now.  Help!  I think it
          has something to do with call waiting.

*73     " "    

*74     Says "call cannot be completed as dialed." Probably reserved
          for future use.  The rest of these codes are like this.  I call this
          the "rubber band recording" because the first sound sounds like a
          plucked rubber band.

*75     Rubber band message on both of my lines.

*80     Rubber band on my generic (no features) line, reorder on other.

*81     Same as above.

*83     Same as above.

*86     Same as above.

*89     Same as above.

*90     Same as above.

*91     Same as above.

*92     Same as above.

*93     Same as above.  [*][0][#]


*******************************
File #3: Let's hack "In Touch"!
*******************************

        Okay, we all know what In Touch is, right?  It's that collection of
recorded messages that you dial late at night when Star Trek isn't on.  The
number is 246-5600; when it answers it will ask you for a 4-digit category
number.  You can find these numbers in the front of your Telecom phone book.
Here's the problem for all you hackers:  When you dial '*' then at least a
4-digit number, and then '*', you get the message: "Enter category to record."
Sounds fun, eh?  Then I'm guessing you have to enter another number followed
by the pound (#) key.  I always get the message, "Category not found", which
probably means that I have the first number wrong.  The first number is
probably the account number or password, which could have access to several
categories (2nd #).  Also, if you dial '*' and then at least a 4-digit number,
and then '#', you get the message, "Enter customer message number to record."
Sound even more fun?  If anyone has any free time or inside information, drop
me, the Phone Phantom, a line on Electric Dreams or the Bible Board.  Thanks.
                          [*][0][#]


***************************************
File #4: How to hack answering machines
***************************************

        To tell you the truth folks, there ain't much info in this file.  It's
mostly a call to arms for phreakers who just want to cause a little confusion.
Most of the stuff here you're going to have to figure out for yourself; I'll
just tell you how to get in the door.  Okay, first you'll need to find a
machine to hack.  Try doctors, lawyers, etc.; people who HAVE to have machines
or answering services *yuck*.  Be careful: ALWAYS use *67, you don't want this
doctor to have a nice record of your phone number and the times that you
called when he gets to work in the morning, do you?  When the message is play-
ing, hit '*'.  This works 95% of the time on remote control phones.  If it
works, you should hear a beep.  If it does not work, try '#' and '0'.  If you
don't get a beep move on to another machine.  After you hear the beep it's
going to want a security code; this is usually 2 digits.  Just start dialing
two digit numbers, like this: "01020304050607080910111213..."  The machine may
hang up on you halfway through; just call back.  When you have the right code
you will hear a longer beep.  You're in!  This is where you must improvise.
Every machine is different.  One key plays the messages, one deletes them, and
another one records a new outgoing message!  This last option is by far the
most phun.  One time I called up the Iowa Department of Transportation and
accidentally recorded a new outgoing message.  Unfortunately, I was talking at
the time, and gave out some incriminating information.  I spent the rest of
the night trying to erase it.  A few weeks later all the DOT stations must
have replaced their machines with non-remote types, because I couldn't hack
any of them anymore.  Oops!  [*][0][#]


*****************************************
File #5: "Imponderables" by David Feldman
*****************************************

This file has been written using information from David Feldman's book,
"Why do Dogs Have Wet Noses?" without permission.  I'm sure David won't mind
as long as you all go out and buy his book if you like these tidbits...

Q.  Why don't magazines put page numbers on every page?
A.  The answer is they'd really like to, but some advertisers expressly tell
    them not to, and they don't mind that much.

Q.  What is the purpose of those orange balls you often see on power lines?
A.  These balls are there to make them visible to airplanes during the winter
    and to scare away birds.

Q.  Why are television sets measured diagonally?
A.  Because it just sounds bigger. (No, really!)

Q.  What is the purpose of the yellow "Violation" flag on parking meters?
A.  Ask anyone this and they might tell you that it's for when your time runs
    out, but that's when the red "Expired" flag pops up.  Actually, the yellow
    flag only comes up if the meter is malfunctioning or if you don't turn the
    crank all the way.  It is against the law to park beside a meter
    displaying the yellow flag, whether you put money in it or not.

Q.  Why do many brands of asprin not have a safety cap on their 100 count
    bottles?
A.  Because the FDA allows them to manufacture ONE size without the safety
    cap, and the 100 count bottle is the most popular (especially with the
    elderly, who might have trouble opening the bottles anyway).

Q.  What is that piece of tissue paper found in wedding invitations?
A.  The tissue paper was originally used to keep the ink from smearing, but
    with todays methods it is no longer needed.

Q.  Why is there no channel 1 on TV's?
A.  Actually, there used to be, but the FCC gave it back to its original
    users--mobile radios.

Q.  Which came first, the chicken or the egg?
A.  The egg.
    Then the chicken.
    Then the sock.

Q.  What unit of measurement is indicated by VCR counters?
A.  This is purely unique to each machine.

Q.  Why is the cold water faucet on the right side, and hot on the left?
A.  Back before hot running water, the faucet was on the right side because
    most people are right-handed.  When hot running water came along, it made
    sense to keep the cold water on the right side.

Q.  How can hair grow after someone dies?
A.  Actually, it can't, but the skin dries out and shrinks, making it appear
    as though the hair has grown.

Q.  How did the heights of light switches become established?
A.  There is some sort of fire barrier in the wall about halfway up, and it's
    easier to put the switch above the barrier.

Q.  Why are weigh stations on highways always closed?
A.  They're open, but for very short, random periods of time to catch truck
    drivers off-gaurd.  If they stayed open longer, word would get out quickly
    by CB and the truck drivers would bypass the staions.

                          [*][0][#]


*****************************************************
File #6: Weekly top 10 things to do to confuse people
*****************************************************

10.  When someone greets you respond with a totally random response like
     "Yeah, but my dog is at home."
 
 9.  Hang up a sign in your dorm room that says "Do not look directly at this
     poster."  When questioned, pretend that it's a sensitive topic and refuse
     to comment.
 
 8.  When you go to bed, make the bed neatly; when you wake, mess it up.

 7.  Get a bunch of fake or real human teeth.  Put them all in your mouth and
     sit down at your desk in class.  After everyone is seated, begin coughing
     loudly and spit the teeth out onto your desk.  Offer them to the person
     next to you.

 6.  "Forget" to flush the toilet, making sure to leave some teeth in the
     bowl.

 5.  Every hour, on the hour, stand up and calmly say "fire" while looking
     blankly straight ahead.  Quickly sit back down and act as though nothing
     has happened.

 4.  Try to carry on a conversation with an orange.  When it doesn't respond,
     begin to smash it with your fist while yelling, "This is for your own
     good, mommy knows best!" After it's good and smushed, pretend to be
     really, really sorry and bandage it up with band-aids while saying, "Gee,
     Mr. Orange, I'm ever so sorry!" Repeat the whole process over and over.

 3.  When you go to the drinking fountain put your nose in the water and
     pretend to inhale it.
 
 2.  Open doors for imaginary people.

 1.  When at home or in your dorm, tie fishing line onto a belt loop and the
     other end to something like a door knob.  When anyone asks you about it
     spin around so that the string winds around your body while repeatedly
     saying, "Big girls don't cry."  [*][0][#]
 

***********************
File #7: Misconceptions
***********************

This area is for me to correct any dumb things that I've heard lately...

- The ringing sound that you hear when you call someone is NOT the actual
  ringing.  It's called the audible, and it's not even in synch with the actual
  ringing!
- One beer will make you just as drunk on the ground as it will on an airliner
  at 35,000 feet.  Your body doesn't even know it's that high because of the
  pressurization of the airplane.
- When you hear people referring to "final approach" to the runway, they're
  only correcy if the airplane is lined up with the runway and has no more
  turns to make before landing.  You can catch flight attendants on this one
  95% of the time.


***********************************
File #8: How to brew your own beer!
***********************************

[------------------------------------------------------------]                   
[                                                            ]
[             The Phone Phantom presents....                 ]
[                                                            ]
[                 How to brew your own beer!                 ]
[                                                            ]
[------------------------------------------------------------]

Okay, here's what you'll need:

-Bottles.  After calling a bunch of bottle manufacturers here in Des Moines,
           one guy told me to buy them from the brewery up in Adel.  It's
           called The Old Depot; it also has a nice restaurant, but it's
           expensive.  They will sell you used beer bottles for 5 cents each,
           or new ones for 20 cents.

-Bottle caps.  You can get these at the Old Depot also for a penny each, or
               from the place where I'm about to tell you to get your crimper 
               for the bottle caps. 

-Bottle capper (or crimper). I got mine at the New City Market; this is where 
                             you'll probably want to get your ingredients.
                             They also have bottle caps and most of the other
                             equipment.  Their address is 4721 University.

-A 4-5 gallon pot.

-Ingredients for your recipe.  You can get just about everything at New City 
                               Market.

-Racking hoses.  Basically siphon hoses.  You can get these at New City Market
                 or just go to the hardware store and buy some vinyl tubing.

-A strainer or cheesecloth bag.

-Brewer's yeast.  I believe it comes in 7 gram packets.  You'll need one per
                  batch, any kind will do.  New City Market.

-2 5-gallon buckets.  I suggest one 5-gallon bucket and one glass carboy
                      (the jug from the office water cooler).  You can get
                      both of these at New City Market.

-An airlock.  This is a little plastic device that you put water in and it
              lets the CO2 escape without letting any air in.  New City Market.

-A rubber stopper.  New City Market.

-Irish moss.  This stuff helps the yeast settle.

-Bottle brush.  New City Market

-Bleach.


Okay, here's the basic process:

Bring 2-3 gallons of water to a boil and add the malt extract.  To make it
easier to pour out of the can, soak the can in hot water first.  Then add the
first load of hops.  The hops that you add at the beginning of the boil is
called the bittering hops, and the hops that you add at the end is called the
aromatic hops.  If your recipe calls for regular malt also, add it now, too.
Also pour in the corn sugar, if it's called for.  Let this mixture (it's called 
a wort) boil for about a half an hour, and during the last 5 minutes of the 
boil, add a teaspoon of Irish Moss.

Now you need to strain all the hops and malt out of the wort, so all you have
is a dark liquid with no crud in it.  You can do this however you want.  After
you've strained it, pour the liquid into your 5-gallon glass carboy (or
plastic bucket, if you've chosen that).  Add cold water until the total amount
of liquid is 5 gallons.  The carboy or bucket that you're using now will be
referred to as the Primary Fermentation Vessel, or PFV.  Put the PFV in a cool
place overnight.

When the liquid in the PFV is cooled to room temperature, sprinkle the yeast
on top of the mixture, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then stir it in.  If
you're using the glass carboy you'll have to shake the whole thing.  Put the
stopper on the carboy and insert the airlock.  Be sure to fill the airlock
halfway with water.  Put the PFV in a cool place to ferment for about a week.

While you're waiting for the beer to ferment, you'll need to wash and
sterilize your bottles.  Use your bottle brush to scrub out the bottles, hold
them up to the light to check for scum, and then soak them all in the bathtub
with bleach and hot water.

You'll know when it's done fermenting because that big foamy thing on top of
the beer will get smaller, and the airlock will bubble less often.  Now you
need to siphon the beer off of the crud at the bottom.  This is where the
other 5-gallon bucket comes in.  Leave a lot of beer in the PFV if you have 
to, but don't siphon up that stuff!  It tastes gross!!  Use your mouth to 
start the siphon.  

After you've siphoned out the good beer, immediately "prime" it with about a
cup of CORN sugar.  This will ferment a little more once it's in the bottles,
creating CO2.  Since the CO2 can't escape, it carbonates your beer.  After
you've primed it, put your beer into bottles and seal them with the crimper.
Put them in a dark place for 2-3 weeks.  After this time you can drink it.  I
would pour it into a glass, first, because whenever you brew your own beer you
are going to have some yeast settled on the bottom of the bottle.  There is no
way around this.  If you drink it from the bottle it tastes a little different
at the bottom.


Here's a rather unique recipe that I like.  Beware: this does not taste like
American beer!  It's good, though.  I had several friends who don't even like
beer tell me that it was good.

Ingredients:

-6 cups corn sugar.
-1 package of Cascade Leaf Hops.  New City Market, in the cooler.
-About 1/3 lb. of Crystal Malt.
-Pale Ale beermaking kit.  It's basically a can of malt extract.  There's a
                           packet of yeast included!

Just make it like I said above, only boil it for 15 minutes instead of 30, add
all of the hops at once, let it ferment for about 5 days, and be sure to save
1 cup of the 6 cups of corn sugar for priming.

While you're at New City Market, check out their books on brewing.  If you're
really into this stuff you might want to pick one up.

Special thanks goes out to Jeff Hunter, SysOp of Temple of the Screaming
Electron BBS.  

That's all, folks!  If you have any questions drop me a line on Electric 
Dreams or the Bible Board.  Happy brewing!!




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 Another file downloaded from:                     The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven

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